Sewing, gardening and advice on patterns and tracing wheels

I can't remember any time the rain was so generous on the coast and the mountains yet 10 km away there is drought.  The garden and paddocks are enjoying the continuous soaking. Again I am reminded that virtually anything can grow if continually watered, as long as the drainage is good...as some of the old farmers say..you could plant a 2 inch nail and it would grow. Between showers I have been getting into gumboots and planting out cuttings.

The wet is a great excuse to stay in the sewing workshop, trace patterns and pursue the challenge of "the perfect House Dress". have had one success and one mediocre outcome. The success was unexpected, trialling an unusual Vogue pattern 1410.

 The pattern has only two beautifully drafted pieces, so is quick and quirky. Buttons sewn onto the seams allow the bottom of the garment with buttonholes in seam, to be simply turned in to make the flattering billowing skirt. I made a few changes and fabric from a roll for old school uniforms...polycotton with a lot of body. As usual the trial fabric came up transformed and has already had an outing. We plan to see how  a winter weight  cord or drill would work with a white shirt or fine knit skivvy. 
This dress is comfortable, quirky, quick to make and has several looks inbuilt from maxi to a top. I prefer the dress length pictured. Again, a great contender for 'the best house dress'.

Not so this one...      

                                     
This was disappointing as the pattern was far too generous and the cut does not flatter. Darts, easing, structure and piecing can give a simple garment great shape and movement....this one had none of these. By trialling it in a heavy uncut cord fabric, I did the pattern no favours. That said it really needs a fabric with structure if not weight. On the positive side, it would be great for someone who is a plus size as the smallest size would equate to a 14-16. It is one of the few designs that incorporate a button front, collar, sleeveless and side pockets, and is comfortable if not flattering.
                                             

I changed the front to get rid of the bulk and hence the bigger overlap...not one of my best adaptations. I was really hoping for a 60's 'mod, skivvy, under a shift look...not really achieved.
Not giving up the challenge though to find the perfect house dress.

Finally, a word of advice to new sewers. If you see a pattern you like, buy it. The patterns become discontinued so quickly and are often quite expensive to purchase. Also, with students using different sizes we have become excellent at using the tracing wheel to copy patterns of specific sizes. A good serrated one is best, possibly Clover as although a little more expensive, the quality is there.
 

Vintage fabric autumn frock, The Blue Fox

Summer weather still makes the cotton dress the best and most versatile. The quest for the simple wearable dress continues here in the workshop with several patterns being trialled.
This week this vintage fabric that was in the stash for years, demanded to be called to service.

 The colours of vintage fabric are so vibrant and jolly. I suspect the dyeing processes that were used then would not be permitted these days. The cotton was a little coarse and thicker than any you would buy today, but will be great for autumn.
To complement such a 'frocky' fabric I went a little vintage in the pattern.

Admittedly, I was swayed by the pattern illustration. I have used the pattern before so knew the sizing was good...no alterations needed other than changing the front..instead of the insert bib in the sailor collar I added a bias self fabric over the seam allowance as I found the neck a little generous.

Again my vintage stash was raided to cover the piping and make the 'rose'.

I opted to part topstitch the pleats in place. The finished frock was very satisfying and thrifty cutting left me with enough fabric for another garment.

Went to the very new The Blue Fox in Lithgow for dinner (a great 'bar and kitchen') and was elated to see so many frocks, many with heels. It really adds to the evening if such a great venue is complemented by great fashion.
Back to the simple dresses challenge.

House dresses with style

In the 1930's married woman were having to adjust to a life without maids and but some compensation came with the advent of mechanisation of housework. Washing machines and vacuum cleaners were welcomed by these women. The Hoover vacuum was so popular a dress was named after the brand; the Hooverette.
The Hooverette was a cross between a dress and an apron. Women wore this garment while doing housework but it was also acceptable to have the neighbour in and even go to the shops.

The style reflected an effort to look presentable even though you were doing housework.
I think the housedress is due for a revival as we have become so enamoured of tights, hoodies and gymwear that we forget the boost a dress can give. It may even be possible that we have lost the confidence to wear a dress as an everyday item.
Over the past few years  'the apron' became popular however the reality is that most of the patterns are designed to look 'vintage' not be practical.
This year we are working our way through dress patterns that would be today's Hoovertette.
The patterns have to comply to the following criteria.

• Comfort and ease of wear to be practical for physical activity
• Ballerina flats, sandals, Mary-Janes with tights or boots will complement the dress so you can happily go out for coffee without having to change.
• Can be easily washed
• Can still look good after a day of activity  
• Pattern is easy and quick to make.
• Preferably has pockets
• Can be suitable for basic fabric so you can use fabric in your stash.

This weeks trial was chosen as it was quick to make, no gathering, no setting in sleeves, darts etc.  It looks a little dated on the pattern envelope but just making it as a dress gives it a readaptation of the 'shift' in fresh summer style. It was made from go to whoa in under an hour including sewing the three buttons on. It was made from 1980's printed cotton. The style worked as it has a bodice attached to a straight lower section. This  allows for darts to be dispensed with. Wearability and workability were excellent.

What better week to revive the little cotton dress!

                           

                               

Note turning up the sleeves and topstitching takes no time yet adds a nice finish.

Make Do and Sew Sustainably

Have you noticed imported clothing has become more expensive yet poorer quality? The idea that you can have a disposable wardrobe runs contrary to a sustainable ideal. The report that Australians buy 27 kilos of new clothing a year, second only to USA, is not a statistic we can be proud of.

In our workshops we are really into making useful accessories from offcuts; gives you a great feel of satisfaction. Two 'farm basics' are quick, easy and indispensable.  Sock savers can be tailored to not only add cheer but save hours of picking out barley grass seeds.

Fly veils are a summer staple, particularly in sheep country. This one is good as it gives protection from the sun by having fabric at the back.


                                 

We are rather pleased with this easy pattern for a mid season frock that everyone wants as it is comfortable but really stylish. It is a variation on Vogue 2325 Everyone who has made it are making several as the pattern is so good.
Hopefully it will be part of a range that will be for sale from the website.

     Finally classes for the year are not yet posted but are ongoing. Regular weekly classes, Introductory and group requests. Just email and explain what you are looking for.
I urge those students who are going into Year 11 and perhaps wanting to do tailoring/dressmaking in Design and Technology, that a few classes are really helpful.
                                 

shirts and shortcuts

The summer rains have given us the perfect excuse to trial patterns and finish projects. Our 'Half Made Never Finished ' workshops have been very cathartic for many wanting to start the new year on a positive note.

This year we will focus on specific areas of dressmaking every month for example shirts followed by tea dresses etc. I will print the full schedule up so you can plan ahead.

We started off with shirts and flew through patterns that looked easy but effective. The vintage Simplicity 1460 however was the most surprising, for creating a totally different look without too much effort.

It is a challenge to commit to a project knowing you are short of fabric. Improvising with contrasting facings is not only easy, but adds interest.

Trying to piece together bits to make a sleeve etc, can be time consuming but satisfying.

Two very quick patterns were impressive for such little effort. They both have several different looks and are well cut with flattering collars. This one took about 90 minutes. If you use big buttons for effect, don't make buttonholes. They will be ugly, sag and your machine will require you to do them manually; no fun at all. Instead sew on metal snap fasteners by hand and then sew the buttons on for effect. Don't forget whenever you are sewing buttonholes, buttons or  snap fasteners, always ensure you have several fabric layers and preferably interfacing.

Similarly this McCalls Pattern was quick to make in less than two hours. Instead of finishing the raw edges by overlocking, pinking the edges is a great solution if you are time poor.

Finally traditional shirts were made using vintage patterns from the 1970's. These take longer as the collar stands, cuffs, plackets and buttonholes all add to sewing and finishing time.

Don't forget to check out the next focus area in February; vintage tea dresses.

Sewing sustainably, 'making do', collars with collar stands and collars in one piece, and the risks of the Grand Parade

More often than not I choose fabric from my stash, not on adequate length, but on colour etc. Consequently I am often  faced with the dilemma of 'half finished cutting out', and 'a metre short'. This is usually a trigger for optimism as the ensuing creative solution is more often than not, reasonably  successful. Knowing you have used up bits and bobs of fabric is at least as satisfying as preparing a meal from the bottom of the fridge crisper!

There are several options to the 'short of fabric' dilemma.
1. Use offcuts with attention to matching stripes etc, to complete a project.

2. Use a contrast that suits.

3. Be creative and take risks. This was the ball gown that I ran out of curtain taffeta for.  I got away with the bottom inserts as I used piping to separate the two parts. The result probably improved the garment as it gave added interest in detail.

The Royal Easter Show was a great time to head the showground to see the best livestock, riders, produce and crafts. A day at the show requires boots and look alike RM Williams shirts. Although time consuming to make, it is such an advantage to master collars, cuffs etc and have several favourite shirt patterns.How often I hear the frustrated cry of 'You can't buy a tailored white shirt anywhere'.
Over the next few weeks we are making shirts, both men's and lady's ,in the workshops. The choices, patterns and detail are huge so I will use this blog to show alternatives.
Collars are probably the most difficult part of a shirt. You can simplify the process by using a pattern with a collar and collar stand all in one piece.

If the pattern is good, the result will be nearly as good as using a pattern with the collar stand separate.

Finally, a photo of the Easter Show highlight; the Grand Parade. I never tire of seeing the livestock parade in the main arena. Often primary school children capably leading cattle and beautifully turned out riders, traps, heavy horses and champion pigs. The occasions when a bull takes off are always a source of nervous mirth but it is great to see a situation where OHand S is kept to a realistic level.

The return of the 'long/formal' dress for evening, pistachios and autumn harvest.

Long or cocktail length for formal occasions?  
This  dilemma drove me quickly to see what was available so I could road test a few patterns. I was attracted to this Burda pattern as it has an elegance and is not fussy.

Not only did this pattern come together in a matter of hours but I managed to dispense with a zip

as I used a cotton with a little lycra from Cooper Street.

Autumn harvest is near complete as we are all surfeit with pears and chokos. The white cockatoos  managed to finish off the unharvested walnuts so we have started to pick pistachios and thankfully the processing and salting is easy. It is always a surprise to taste the sweetness and colour of fresh green pistachios. 

Rhubarb is still generous  and finally we are looking at the abundance of olives and deciding on their fate. Autumn flowers also start to flower on shorter stems, ensuring enough seed set for future generations though presenting challenges for florists.

All old farm sheds have a pile of hessian potato and seed bags that are testament to many of the big agriculture firms and districts. These bags have recently become a collectors item.

Finally the Easter Show is starting Thursday. It is a great opportunity to see our best produce and livestock. Whether you are a dog, pig, horse or chook fancier, it is the best show in town!