Sewing sustainably, 'making do', collars with collar stands and collars in one piece, and the risks of the Grand Parade

More often than not I choose fabric from my stash, not on adequate length, but on colour etc. Consequently I am often  faced with the dilemma of 'half finished cutting out', and 'a metre short'. This is usually a trigger for optimism as the ensuing creative solution is more often than not, reasonably  successful. Knowing you have used up bits and bobs of fabric is at least as satisfying as preparing a meal from the bottom of the fridge crisper!

There are several options to the 'short of fabric' dilemma.
1. Use offcuts with attention to matching stripes etc, to complete a project.

2. Use a contrast that suits.

3. Be creative and take risks. This was the ball gown that I ran out of curtain taffeta for.  I got away with the bottom inserts as I used piping to separate the two parts. The result probably improved the garment as it gave added interest in detail.

The Royal Easter Show was a great time to head the showground to see the best livestock, riders, produce and crafts. A day at the show requires boots and look alike RM Williams shirts. Although time consuming to make, it is such an advantage to master collars, cuffs etc and have several favourite shirt patterns.How often I hear the frustrated cry of 'You can't buy a tailored white shirt anywhere'.
Over the next few weeks we are making shirts, both men's and lady's ,in the workshops. The choices, patterns and detail are huge so I will use this blog to show alternatives.
Collars are probably the most difficult part of a shirt. You can simplify the process by using a pattern with a collar and collar stand all in one piece.

If the pattern is good, the result will be nearly as good as using a pattern with the collar stand separate.

Finally, a photo of the Easter Show highlight; the Grand Parade. I never tire of seeing the livestock parade in the main arena. Often primary school children capably leading cattle and beautifully turned out riders, traps, heavy horses and champion pigs. The occasions when a bull takes off are always a source of nervous mirth but it is great to see a situation where OHand S is kept to a realistic level.

The return of the 'long/formal' dress for evening, pistachios and autumn harvest.

Long or cocktail length for formal occasions?  
This  dilemma drove me quickly to see what was available so I could road test a few patterns. I was attracted to this Burda pattern as it has an elegance and is not fussy.

Not only did this pattern come together in a matter of hours but I managed to dispense with a zip

as I used a cotton with a little lycra from Cooper Street.

Autumn harvest is near complete as we are all surfeit with pears and chokos. The white cockatoos  managed to finish off the unharvested walnuts so we have started to pick pistachios and thankfully the processing and salting is easy. It is always a surprise to taste the sweetness and colour of fresh green pistachios. 

Rhubarb is still generous  and finally we are looking at the abundance of olives and deciding on their fate. Autumn flowers also start to flower on shorter stems, ensuring enough seed set for future generations though presenting challenges for florists.

All old farm sheds have a pile of hessian potato and seed bags that are testament to many of the big agriculture firms and districts. These bags have recently become a collectors item.

Finally the Easter Show is starting Thursday. It is a great opportunity to see our best produce and livestock. Whether you are a dog, pig, horse or chook fancier, it is the best show in town!

Nightshirts, nightgowns and palazzo pants

What happened to nightgowns? They seem to have disappeared into the ether along with any product that was a favourite at the supermarket! To add a bit of  interest I piped in a bit of spotty bias and finished  this great soft cotton with recycled buttons.
The same Butterick  pattern is being used by one of our 'half-made-never-finished' sewers, to make a white cotton nightgown with lace inserts, using sheeting cotton that is very good quality and cheap as it is 2.4 cm wide.

An alternative to the nightgown is the nightshirt; so versatile it can be worn over leggings with a belt, worn loose as an artist's smock or used as intended. Again, the patterns are readily available and cotton chambray works well.

Staying on the theme of  'sleepwear', we moved a little to the bohemian in response to a student's request and evoked the 60's with a return of the palazzo pants.  adaptation of  This first attempt was actually an adaptation of a pyjama pattern, and cutting the pants on the bias. The result was so 60's that all that was needed was a wide brimmed floppy hat and the transportation to the 60's  would be complete.

Thesurprise was their comfort combined with their incredible fluid style....they just feel great. The patterns are somewhat evocative of the lounge  pyjamas of the 1920s. Next week we may make an opera coat to match. 

  

Waistcoats,jodhpurs and the Tweed Run

With the first days of autumn and the Beurre Bosc harvested,we sigh at the slowing pace of autumn and the satisfaction of the harvests. It is a time to contemplate picnics, cycling and horseriding, all enjoyed  in crisp days with low slung sun and no flies.

The great outfits worn by the British cycling group called 'Tweed Run' were inspiration this week at the sewing workshop. They are a cycling group who favour traditional attire over lycra.

Waistcoats and jodhpurs are great outdoor activity attire, as they add a  bit of style while being functional. The latest vest  I  made has a collar and four buttons. It is fully lined with two faux welt pockets. The vintage  McCalls pattern has an excellent cut.

Finding a classic jodhpur pattern was a challenge.

Again, a search including 'vintage' was successful. There were plenty of patterns of jodhpurs with fitted hips but very difficult to find the classic style pattern with exaggerated.

This week in the Sewing Emporium we are making pellazo pants. These pants from the twenties are indicative of days spent recovering from high living. They were also known as Beach pyjamas and were quite full. I am sure Phryne Fisher would have favoured them; the trick will be to have the generous dimensions but not look swamped by the fabric.  Tuesday and Thursday mornings will have workshops going; ring for details.

Agricultural Shows, ball season, making gowns and bounteous harvests

This summer has been a cracker with the generous rainfall, temperatures in the 20's and harvests that continue to amaze.
Last week was the local Rydal Show. We hear so often how Ag shows are struggling. Rydal has strongly resisted any inroads of outside catering, continuing to have the old dining room with trestle tables, table cloths, morning and afternoon teas and hot lunches. Shepherd's pies and teas with lamingtons and pound cakes, local stewed peaches, jelly, steamed pudding and custard...the menu has changed little in 100 years and is still as popular! From my kitchen vantage point I think we broke all records. The car park was full as was the dining room.
Forty Bends managed a Grand Champion ribbon for our fruit as well as many firsts in vegetables.

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We have just finished quinces and nectarines. I have new found respect for quince jelly , a far superior product to quince paste I feel as the colour and piquancy is superior to the opaque paste.

Last Saturday evening we attended a fabulous ball at Abercrombie House Bathurst, a 19th century stone mansion built on the architecture of a Scottish Hunting Lodge. Unlike so many balls where dress code has eroded and dancing comes second to drinking, this ball was true to tradition. It was a revelation to me to experience a ball in all aspects that they were originally conceived.

The evening was a montage of delights from dining on the tessalated verandahs in the late summer warmth, enjoying the house as guests of the owners the Morgans, sublime tenor singing with the ballroom acoustics, refreshing tea with supper, dances to enjoy on a beautiful floor...but the best of all was the unhurried, long glorious unfolding of restrained indulgence.

Attendance required finding the tails and restarching vests. For my 1890's ball gown I set myself the task of using whatever was in my stash. Curtain fabric, richly textured but unfortunately 2 metres short of requirements, came to light. Creative additions to the bottom of the skirt solved the problem and the results were pleasing and comfortable though I will add a hooped petticoat for its next outing.

The next few months of balls will require a few more enjoyable hours making gowns...a pleasure as the purpose is so rewarding.

This week in the Summer Hill sewing workshop I am combining 'bicycle and horseriding wear' of vests and jodphurs....all in the preparations of autumn days that lend to such activities. 

I am hoping that Sydneysiders will take the opportunity to come west of the mountains to a dressmaking workshop, lunch on farm produce and  use their stay to explore the wonderful Hartley and surrounds and eventually join in country fun with balls, shows and perhaps even traditional rural sports.

Giant ironing board and seamstress duster coat

 The facilities  at the new home for the Summer Hill Sewing workshops have been well and truly tested and they have passed with flying colours. The giant ironing board is proving to be indispensable, the huge cutting table facilitates very wide bolts of fabric and the industrial shed lights are  wonderful.

We are working on the old idea of a work coat called a duster. Dusters were traditionally worn by tradespeople and horsemen to keep the dust off their clothes. Here is our first attempt...not happy with the pockets so will work on the design over the next few weeks. Some of our sewers attending the workshops are contributing to this project; it is a work in progress.

Hopefully it will result in the 'Seamstress Duster' I envisage as the practical garment to sew in.

Feel inspired?

Now that 2015 is a reality, it is a great time to be innovative and creative with your wardrobe and accessories. How easy it is to put a little glamour  and colour into the streetscape by dressing up instead of down. As Tom Ford said 'Dressing well is a form of good manners'.
At the new Summer Hill Sewing Emporium on the farm, we have been making frocks for summer. Nothing like putting on a frock with a jaunty pair of mules to soften the prospect of returning to work. Frocks are so much cooler and more comfortable than trousers or jeans.

You can go for the retro look or the classic shirtdress.

There are so many good patterns available your choice is unlimited. Here we used Simplicity pattern 1429 to make a waisted dress using retro look fabric..easy and very versatile.

We are now back into the swing of classes with our weekly 'Half-made-never-finished on Tuesday mornings and Friday evenings. Also we are starting a Thursday beginners group; ring or email to ask about times. If you are from Sydney or the mountains a Saturday workshop with friends may be the ideal get together.